Saturday, February 19, 2011

NYC Fashion Week: Fall/Winter 2011: Hervé Léger

The strength of Hervé Léger's eternally smoking-hot bandage dress is instant recognizability. When so many labels blur into one another, that visual power is enviable. And while Max and Lubov Azria must occasionally grapple with the seen-one, seen-them-all perception of what they do, they seem to enjoy taking Léger's specific codes in a new direction each season, and pushing their techniques.

In their show notes, the Azrias called today's look "an inimitable suit of armor." That meant a major uptick in their usage of gold and silver hardware, not just as embellishment but as an essential design element. Dresses and gowns were striped with gold rectangles sewn in between bands of material, and covered with buckle rings and chains woven into the fabric.

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